Spring’s Bounty
A perfect spring picnic — photo: Gabriel Kiritz
Spring is in the air, and it’s an especially dramatic shift here in the Northeast. If you are living in the Northern Hemisphere, you too are likely experiencing the reemergence of the color green: a vibrant version unique to this time of year — so tied to spring’s unfolding food palate and the feeling of hope and new beginnings that accompany it. This is the time when I clear away dead growth, plant seeds and cherish the new abundance of those fresh, earthy smells and flavors. Springtime offers a wide variety of green gifts, such as spring onions, chives, arugula and various lettuces and peas. None, in my opinion, compare to the deeply flavorful and fleeting vegetable: the asparagus.
This asparagus recipe has very few ingredients, and celebrates the flavors of spring. Asparagus, herbs and labneh are the fresh flavors that we crave as we say goodbye to “stew season” and welcome warmer weather. If you are able to source it, try making your labneh with goat’s milk. Easier for most to tolerate and digest, goat’s milk is especially celebrated in the spring, as most farmers dry their soon-to-be mama goats over the winter, beginning milking again only after the spring kidding season.
I like this asparagus served with crusty sourdough bread and soft boiled eggs, but it’s also delicious tossed with pasta, whole grains or served as a solo act.
Asparagus with Labneh & Fresh Herbs
- 2 lbs ASPARAGUS, stalks halved
- OLIVE OIL, to taste
- SALT & PEPPER, to taste
- 1 LEMON, freshly juiced
- ½ cup SEASONED LABNEH
- 1 tbsp ZA’ATAR (sesame, sumac, marjoram & salt)
- 2 tbsp each FRESH DILL & MINT, roughly chopped
- 1 tbsp CHIVES, minced
Optional Serving Extras:
- Farm EGGS
- Fresh SOURDOUGH
In a hot pan on med-high, or in a 425 degree oven, roast or sauté asparagus with olive oil, salt and pepper until crispy (about 8-10 minutes).
Let cool 5 minutes, then gently toss with lemon, chives and fresh herbs.
Top with labneh and za’atar.
Perfect soft-boiled eggs:
Drop room-temperature eggs gently into boiling water. Boil for 7 minutes, then run under cold water until cool. Peel, and gently slice in half lengthwise just before serving.
Top with coarse salt.
Perfect soft-boiled eggs — photo: Gabriel Kiritz
Make-Your-Own Labneh
Makes 2 cups
- ½ gallon WHOLE MILK (cow or goat)
- ¼ cup PLAIN YOGURT, room temperature
- 1 large clove GARLIC, microplaned
- 2 tbsp to ¼ cup OLIVE OIL
- SALT & PEPPER, to taste
Over low in a heavy-bottomed pot, heat milk to 180 degrees. Remove from heat and cool milk to 115-120. Whisk in yogurt and leave in covered pot, cover and let sit in a warm place for 6-24 hours (the longer, the tangier and more probiotic). If you are on the road, try your dashboard in the sun.
Strain the yogurt by hanging in cheesecloth or a towel until yogurt resembles a soft cheese consistency (about 4 hours).
Combine with garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper to taste and chill.
*To simplify this recipe, strain one quart of plain, whole milk greek yogurt until it reaches the desired consistency.
One of “the girls” at Appleton Creamery in Midcoast Maine, where climber and cook Katie Ryan apprenticed making cheese in 2018 — photo: Katie Ryan
Seasons
In a time when so much feels uncharted and uncertain, I feel great comfort that the seasons continue to offer their familiar patterns and cast of characters. We may have to set aside May’s climbing goals, or expected seasonal work or travel, but for now we can still count on the certainty of spring’s bounty. That asparagus will once again emerge in its green, spindly splendor, shooting up toward the sky in celebration.
